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TABLE
OF CONTENTS is on Page 1
ALASKA,
BARROW TRAVELS
(Continued) |
HERITAGE
CENTER
One
of many visits to the Heritage Center (also see the July photos, next
page), these
are additional of things not photographed before...the bowhead whale in
the main lobby, a central figure in the lives of the Inupiat people here,
and a colorful poster of a whale hunt:
![her5.JPG (37480 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her5_small.JPG)
|
A male caribou skeleton:
![b2heritage2.JPG (37548 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/b2heritage2_small.JPG)
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The male ringed seal
skeleton, both animals are important food sources for the people of Barrow
![b2heritage4.JPG (38064 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/b2heritage4_small.JPG)
|
An impressive walrus tooth necklace, yes they also
catch walrus:
![b2heritage8.JPG (38777 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/b2heritage8_small.JPG)
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3
polar bears feeding, on a whale vertebrae disk
![her6.JPG (38337 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her6_small.JPG)
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Caribou
ivory carving
![her1.JPG (39726 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her1_small.JPG)
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2
drummers, 2 dancing figures
![her2.JPG (37087 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her2_small.JPG)
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Dahl
sheep ivory carving
![her11.JPG (39196 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her11_small.JPG)
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The
snowy owl for which Barrow draws many birdwatchers
![her4.JPG (38821 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her4_small.JPG)
![her12.JPG (38258 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her12_small.JPG)
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Artifact
Whale amulet (dated 1920), and a Christian cross amulet
![her7.JPG (40581 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her7_small.JPG)
![her8.JPG (38773 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her8_small.JPG)
|
HUGE
Polar bear fur mittens at the gift shop, price below:
![her9.JPG (37696 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her9_small.JPG)
Yes, that's $720
![her10.JPG (38408 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her10_small.JPG)
Another pair of polar bear mittens in the
museum for display only
![her14.JPG (39207 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her14_small.JPG)
|
Bust
of Inupiaq in what appears to be whale shoulder bone
![her16.JPG (38224 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her16_small.JPG)
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Seal
skin & wolverine fur coat, gorgeous
![her3.JPG (39602 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her3_small.JPG)
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Artifact
Baleen sled
![her13.JPG (36723 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her13_small.JPG)
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Artifact
Snow goggles of ivory and baleen
![her15.JPG (39065 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her15_small.JPG)
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Baleen
ships, by Whitlam Adams
![her19.JPG (39259 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her19_small.JPG)
![her18.JPG (37696 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/her18_small.JPG)
|
Two of the most helpful new friends we met
there in the Gift Shop, Annie (a children's book illustrator of the book
Whale Snow, among others), and Robin (a valuable worker for the ECHO
grants people, and a friendly & patient friend who assisted us with
our many questions about the Inupiat people. It is clear they have
the Inupiat peoples' best interests in mind. Good people):
![b2heritage9.JPG (35617 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/b2heritage9_small.JPG)
|
NARL
College & Research Building |
![bar139.jpg (151251 bytes)](Photos2-Alaska/bar139_small.jpg)
We discovered the
NARL buildings connected to the university (built by the Navy, now used
by world scientists and university students) that have a great
cafeteria and stomped the hallways reading about all the studies being
done on the whales, bird flu, global warming, etc. They have a
huge bowhead whale skull displayed out front. This
whale (as the sign says, among other interesting facts) was 51' 5"
long, caught in 1987, weighed an estimated 100,000 pounds +, it took 14
boats to tow it in. Some kind of record! A
Beluga Whale skeleton, now on display in Point Lay. This photograph
is in the hallway of the NARL building
![bar174.jpg (130709 bytes)](Photos2-Alaska/bar174_small.jpg)
|
BIRTHDAY |
By the 19th
Glenn arranged an early surprise birthday dinner at Pepe's Mexican
Restaurant with our new Native friends, what a special birthday to see
them all smiling at us around one big table.
![b2birthday6.JPG (38214 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/b2birthday6_small.JPG)
David and Clara even tried on Glenn's goofy
wig that he bought at a local shop:
![b2birthday7.JPG (37076 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/b2birthday7_small.JPG)
Clara in her beautiful coat, with Angela:
![b2birthday5.JPG (38563 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/b2birthday5_small.JPG)
Unforgettable.
We brought home lots of phone numbers and email addresses to keep in
contact, and we'll track down the rest of the artists we heard about and
lists we got, on another trip or two. By the end of our stay,
folks were waving to us from pick-ups driving by, yoo hoo-ing us from
down the street, in the grocery store. It was a wonderful
feeling. In fact, the local radio station has a Birthday Hour each
day on radio & TV, and Clara called in to wish me a happy birthday
on the night of the 20th. How special is that? I will never
forget this birthday as long as I live. |
Though
Glenn takes the cake for scary guys wearing this wig, and in his full
beach gear:
![glenn5.JPG (37558 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/glenn5_small.JPG)
|
PATKOTAK
FAMILY
Carvings, and new
bone & baleen |
It's
funny how we
connected the dots on three people. We met again with Genelle
Patkotak Okpeaha and her family that we bought baleen etchings from, and we invited them to our hotel room to give
them sharks teeth and buy from what they brought (ivory carvings,
jewelry).
![sim8.JPG (37931 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/sim8_small.JPG)
Here is Genelle holding a lovely necklace made
of walrus teeth with a huge polar bear tooth for sale
![sim9.JPG (38108 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/sim9_small.JPG)
And Genelle with her son and husband,
rightfully proud of their jackets with the family name. They caught
the first and largest whale this season:
![sim11.JPG (37792 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/sim11_small.JPG)
|
Genelle's
dad is a
renowned whaling captain Simeon Patkotak (below, holding an oosik with
artwork on it).
We
saw whale bones outside one house, Glenn wrote it down
and we stopped there on Friday before we left. It turned out to be
Genelle's Dad Simeon's house. He was so hospitable, shared some interesting
stories and a religious testimonial, and invited us to take photos of
the bones & baleen that he sells to artists.
|
Caribou
antlers, whale vertebrae & rib bones
![sim1.JPG (37699 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/sim1_small.JPG)
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Fresh
whale vertebrae that will cure over time
![sim2.JPG (37242 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/sim2_small.JPG)
|
Sheaves
of baleen
![sim3.JPG (38683 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/sim3_small.JPG)
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Whale
vertebrae on the left, baleen on the right
![sim4.JPG (38351 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/sim4_small.JPG)
|
Walrus
skulls
![sim6.JPG (37355 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/sim6_small.JPG)
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Whale
vertebrae that are now ready to sell to artists
![sim7.JPG (37137 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/sim7_small.JPG)
|
|
|
ETHEL
and MARY |
We bought 2
exquisitely soft chinchilla furs from the fur place with Mary's help (she
was clerking at the Fur Shop), here's Mary with Glenn when she brought a
lovely poem and a sample of fabric to our hotel room:
![mary.JPG (38206 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/mary_small.JPG)
and had Ethel sew
them on the collar of my coat, boy did that make a warm choice for
walking on the beach. Plus, we made fast friends with Ethel:
![ethel.JPG (37646 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/ethel_small.JPG)
|
The
next
morning in the airport terminal, here's Simeon!. We greeted him and asked why he was there.
He was seeing off his daughter and her son to the doctor in Anchorage -
Ethel! Ethel is Genelle's sister, turns out also
that Ethel is quite a renowned singer and has several CD's (link below). |
The pipeline
was clearly visible from the airplane as we flew from Barrow to Prudhoe
Bay for a stop-off on the way back to Anchorage
![pipeline.JPG (38439 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/pipeline_small.JPG)
|
ANCHORAGE
AIRPORT
ALASKAN CARVINGS DISPLAYS
One of the finest museum collections we have
ever seen at an airport. Display only, not for sale. Enjoy! |
Eskimo
activities
![air1.JPG (38713 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air1_small.JPG)
|
Dancers
![air2.JPG (41226 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air2_small.JPG)
|
Seals,
totem, walrus and blanket toss diorama
![air3.JPG (36999 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air3_small.JPG)
|
Eagle
ivory knife, geese, swan, loon, puffin, arm of a seal intestine coat
![air4.JPG (38402 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air4_small.JPG)
|
Beautiful
carved ivory serving spoon, seal intestine coat, cribbage board walrus
tusk and another walrus tusk
![air5.JPG (38074 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air5_small.JPG) |
Native
diorama of food cache building, Eskimo skinning seal and stretched seal
hide, kayak, on antler
![air6.JPG (37642 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air6_small.JPG)
|
Eskimo
pulling kayak with seal bladder float
![air7.JPG (37856 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air7_small.JPG)
|
Fantasy
long-necked polar bear Ulu knife
![air8.JPG (37117 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air8_small.JPG)
|
Overview
of the above 4 photos showing the whole display case
![air9.JPG (38409 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air9_small.JPG)
|
Whale
skull with bone face carving, front & back
![air10.JPG (37228 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air10_small.JPG)
![air12.JPG (37315 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air12_small.JPG)
|
Eskimo,
walrus and polar bear bone carvings; also whale skull carving from the
side, and close-ups of the bear and walrus
![air11.JPG (37741 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air11_small.JPG)
![air13.JPG (36928 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air13_small.JPG)
|
Eskimo
doll cleaning seal intestine to make waterproof jacket
![air14.JPG (38391 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air14_small.JPG)
|
Full
sized Drum
![air15.JPG (38918 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air15_small.JPG)
|
Superb
bear shaman made of whale vertebrae
![air23.JPG (37387 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air23_small.JPG)
|
3
link chain ivory human figure, on whale vertebrae disk
![air18.JPG (41647 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air18_small.JPG)
|
Beluga
and bowhead whales, graceful swans, Eskimo pulling kayak, baleen basket
![air19.JPG (39395 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air19_small.JPG)
|
Grass
and baleen baskets
![air20.JPG (40072 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air20_small.JPG)
|
Expressive
walrus carving (by Ricky Kuzuguk), and otter carving (Aaron Oseuk), of
whale bone
![air31.JPG (39483 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air31_small.JPG)
|
Whale
bone mask with labret (lip plug decoration) by Frd Nayokpuk of Shishmaref
![air24.JPG (39523 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air24_small.JPG)
|
Ceremonial
robe, typical of Tlingit style, Southwest Alaskan coast
![air25.JPG (38285 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air25_small.JPG)
|
Carved
seal head with whiskers, I believe it is made of wood
![air26.JPG (36721 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air26_small.JPG)
|
Bear
and walrus, whale bone carving, by Rudolph Noongwook
![air29.JPG (37825 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air29_small.JPG)
|
Primitive
human figure with enlarged head, hunting seal, made of whale bone
![air32.JPG (39206 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air32_small.JPG)
and
![air30.JPG (38417 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air30_small.JPG)
|
Whale
bone mask with labret (lip plug decoration) by Rick Seeganna
![air34.JPG (39425 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air34_small.JPG)
|
Eskimo
dolls in various types of dress
![air27.JPG (38538 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air27_small.JPG)
![air22.JPG (36362 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/air22_small.JPG)
|
ARTIFACTS
shared by a fellow collector |
Hair combs
![art1.JPG (38379 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/art1_small.JPG)
![art8.JPG (39116 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/art8_small.JPG)
|
Ivory
spoons
![art2.JPG (38891 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/art2_small.JPG)
![art11.JPG (39141 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/art11_small.JPG)
|
Ivory sled
runner
![art3.JPG (38668 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/art3_small.JPG)
|
Bear
figurine![art4.JPG (39328 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/art4_small.JPG) |
Harpoon
head
![art5.JPG (38705 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/art5_small.JPG)
|
Hand bowl
![art10.JPG (38372 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/art10_small.JPG)
![art6.JPG (38874 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/art6_small.JPG)
|
Primitive
adz
![art7.JPG (40832 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/art7_small.JPG)
|
Ivory sled
runner
![art9.JPG (38690 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/art9_small.JPG)
|
Extremely
large whale shoulder bone, Glenn beside it
![art12.JPG (38652 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/art12_small.JPG)
|
We
came home in October to fields of cotton in South Carolina, quite a
culture shock
![food2.JPG (40682 bytes)](Photos%20Alaska/food2_small.JPG)
|
AUGUST
2007 Glenn in
his new sealskin-beaver Alaska hat, a gift from friend Doug in August
2007, Glenn tried it on in the 105 degree South Carolina summer heat to
show him his thanks for the gift, he's taking it along for our October
3-16, 2007 trip:
|
BARROW,
ALASKA
(July 2-3, 2006)
![alaskabarrowsign3.JPG (38613 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowsign3_small.JPG)
"Top of the world", far above the
Arctic Circle, the furthermost northern point you can be in the United
States, accessible by plane, boat or barge. Here we are between two whale ribs
overlooking the Arctic Sea.
These photos were taken on our 2nd day
there, temperature was in the warm 30's:
![alaskabarrowice1.JPG (37869 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowice1_small.JPG)
![alaskabarrowboat3.JPG (38370 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowboat3_small.JPG)
But
the day before it was closer to zero, cloudy & windy, the ice still
against the shore. The amazing power of wind actually broke the ice
away from the shore overnight, the actual start of their Spring:
![alaskabarrowglennheidi3.JPG (36271 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowglennheidi3_small.JPG)
|
POLAR
BEAR
sighting at Point Barrow (Nuvuk)
|
On
our second trip out to the Point on July 3, far beyond where the tour
buses can go, our experienced guide Bunna spotted a large polar bear near
the bone pile the Natives leave for the animals to scavenge.
We first knew he had seen the bear by his gasp, then "I love my
job". We all sighted him through binoculars, and took photos
and video as long as we could keep him in sight. The best part was
that he never knew we were there.
![alaskapolarbear2.JPG (39727 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskapolarbear2_small.JPG)
![alaskapolarbear9.JPG (38595 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskapolarbear9_small.JPG)
![alaskapolarbear5.JPG (36848 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskapolarbear5_small.JPG)
Bunna put his own handprint beside this polar
bear's paw print. Small by comparison.
![alaskapolarbearpaw3.JPG (37902 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskapolarbearpaw3_small.JPG)
A stunning experience that is difficult to put
into words.
Other sights at Point Barrow (Nuvuk):
Ice build up on the shore (remember this is
July 2-3, a hot summer for almost everyone else)
![alaskabarrowice2.JPG (37215 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowice2_small.JPG)
Buttercups blooming (weather is near zero with
a strong wind, yet these delicate flowers thrive):
![alaskabarrowbuttercups2.JPG (38409 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowbuttercups2_small.JPG)
Seal backbone and arctic fox fur, remains of
polar bear meals:
![alaskabarrowarcticfox1.JPG (38476 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowarcticfox1_small.JPG)
Whale
bones
A
series of dumpsters they call The Bone Pile at the Point, where the polar
bears come to eat the remains, far from town:
![alaskabarrowbonepile2.JPG (40540 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowbonepile2_small.JPG)
Glenn and Bunna looking for polar bear.
A bone marker in the background, and up close:
![alaskabarrowpoint2.JPG (39511 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowpoint2_small.JPG)
A formation of dirty ice that Glenn was SURE
was a seal. We never found out for sure till we came home and viewed
the photos. Darn! Nature can be cruel. Almost as
bad as bending over on Myrtle Beach to pick up a fossil shark's tooth,
only to find it is a piece of shell pretending to be a shark tooth.
![alaskaice2.JPG (38494 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskaice2_small.JPG)
Here's Bunna and his beautiful wife Eva &
son Edward, and with the owner Fran Tate, at Pepe's North of the Border
Mexican Restaurant:
And Bunna, doing what he loves, 4-wheeling out
at the Point, looking for polar bears:
|
INUPIAT
HERITAGE CENTER
An appropriate place for sharing the cultural
history of the Eskimo people from Barrow
![alaskabarrowheritage.JPG (37406 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowheritage_small.JPG)
|
Inside
the central room at the Heritage Center, native artists set up tables to
sell their work. |
We purchased this baleen boat from a friend of
Whitlam Adams who made this beautiful item |
Artist Perry Matumeak has a distinct style of
etching the baleen in a geometric fashion that is wonderful. We
bought this piece. |
Elder Bertha Leavitt is 94 years old, a highly
respected woman in Barrow. I purchased the seal skin yo-yos and
stuffed seal toy from her. As always, I requested permission before
taking this picture. |
Genelle
Okpeaha has been etching baleen for about 9 months. We bought
several pieces from her.
![alaskabarrowartist2.JPG (37649 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowartist2_small.JPG)
Here Genelle is etching a wolf roarer of
baleen (like the bull roarer you see in Crocodile Dundee that makes a
roaring sound when swung in a circle around your head)
![alaskabarrowartist3.JPG (38466 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowartist3_small.JPG)
The next day, we find her etching another
polar bear on baleen. We bought this one too. She is a very
sweet and friendly person and an excellent artist in her own right.
![alaskabarrowartist8.JPG (37696 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowartist8_small.JPG)
|
Photos
of some of the handiwork, tools, artifacts and stories at the Heritage
Center |
An
exceptional carving in whale bone, a scene of Eskimo life
![alaskabarrowheritage2.JPG (35942 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowheritage2_small.JPG)
|
A polar bear carving from a jaw, and other
ivory carvings![alaskabarrowheritage3.JPG (38385 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowheritage3_small.JPG) |
Whale,
bird and walrus carvings from whale bone
![alaskabarrowheritage4.JPG (38117 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowheritage4_small.JPG)
|
A
perfect whale ear bone scrimshawed with a whale, and a baleen ship![alaskabarrowheritage5.JPG (37317 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowheritage5_small.JPG) |
A
delightful pile of whale, walrus & polar bear carved from one piece of
ivory
![alaskabarrowheritage6.JPG (38135 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowheritage6_small.JPG)
|
A
graceful owl totem, appropriate for Barrow "The Place Where they Hunt
Snowy Owl"
![alaskabarrowheritage7.JPG (38412 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowheritage7_small.JPG)
|
Eagle
feeding young, carving in ivory on a vertebra
![alaskabarrowheritage8.JPG (38939 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowheritage8_small.JPG)
|
![alaskabarrowparka2.JPG (40617 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowparka2_small.JPG)
An exquisitely made PARKA of squirrel,
calfskin, wolf & wolverine (apologies for the dim light) |
"Death Pill" made of coiled baleen
used to catch wolves, wolverines & bears before guns |
![alaskabarrow-swanfeet1.JPG (40322 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrow-swanfeet1_small.JPG)
Water bag made of recycled Tundra Swan feet |
![alaskabarrow-sealscratcher1.JPG (37275 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrow-sealscratcher1_small.JPG)
Seal scratcher used like a turkey caller to
attract the seals to be caught |
WHALE
KILL PHOTOS |
Pictures
of a whale kill at the Heritage Center, carving the carcass into strips
the size of the wooden sleds to be hauled to their homes and stored in
their freezers or ice cellars. Before you judge these people for
killing whales, remember that other peoples look down on Caucasians eating
cow! These are a subsistence people and they fill a quota they set
for whales to be caught and use as much of it as possible. They also
share with neighboring villages that may not have successful hunts.
![alaskabarrow-whale4.JPG (36871 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrow-whale4_small.JPG)
![alaskabarrow-whale1.JPG (38698 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrow-whale1_small.JPG)
Here are some of the meat sleds we saw in the
yards around town that matched what we saw in the photos:
![alaskabarrowwhale10.JPG (36823 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowwhale10_small.JPG)
The Inupiat people (Native Eskimos of Barrow)
have a high respect for the animals they take. There is no sound of
joy while a whale is being taken, only after its death. Harry
Brower, Sr. in his book "The Whales They Give Themselves" is
quoted here:
![alaskabarrow-whale6.jpg (55057 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrow-whale6_small.jpg)
The respect for the whale extends even to how
the whale meat is stored. The ice cellar to preserve the whale
blubber (maktak) and meat is dug down into the permafrost. Each year
the walls are scraped clean and re-lined with fresh show.
![alaskabarrow-whale9.JPG (37009 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrow-whale9_small.JPG)
|
DANCE
Traditional drumming performed by the men
(note the flat drums), dancing by the young women, chanting by Jane
Brower, at the Heritage Center in a side room. This is performed for
the tourists (we paid the fee and slipped in the back to watch), but I'm
sure this is great practice for them before they dance for everyone at the
festivals. |
![alaskabarrowdance8.JPG (38103 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowdance8_small.JPG)
|
OTHER
VIEWS 'ROUND TOWN |
![alaskabarrowschool.JPG (38293 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowschool_small.JPG)
The middle school with a bowhead whale skull
at the entrance |
A
beautiful red moss growing beside an Asian restaurant
![alaskabarrowmoss.JPG (39733 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowmoss_small.JPG)
|
![alaskabarrowsports.JPG (37244 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowsports_small.JPG)
A super indoor sports center. The Barrow
residents particularly love basketball |
Typical
Barrow truck from driving the gravel roads:
![alaskabarrowveh1.JPG (38565 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowveh1_small.JPG)
|
Now
THIS is the way to travel.. snow tractor tank!
![alaskabarrowveh2.JPG (38095 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowveh2_small.JPG)
|
An assortment of snow machines, four wheelers
& trucks adapted to Barrow needs |
Typical
home in Barrow. Note the whale flipper bone as decoration
![alaskabarrowhome1.JPG (37429 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowhome1_small.JPG)
|
...and
the barrel of baleen in front of this home
![alaskabarrowhome2.JPG (37348 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowhome2_small.JPG)
|
A
giant whale jawbone next to Joe's house and boat
![alaskabarrowwhalerib2.JPG (39060 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowwhalerib2_small.JPG)
|
Our
hotel, the King Eider, was quite comfortable, the first hotel where we had
to take our shoes off inside the door![alaskakingeider2.JPG (39252 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskakingeider2_small.JPG) |
Hunting boats:
![alaskabarrowboat1.JPG (38020 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowboat1_small.JPG)
![alaskabarrowboat2.JPG (39986 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowboat2_small.JPG)
|
Fish camp towards Point Barrow, rougher
shelter like camping
|
![alaskabarrowpalm2.JPG (37901 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowpalm2_small.JPG)
Okay, so we found PALM TREES at the top of the
world---made of WHALE BALEEN
|
The
famous Mexican Restaurant Pepe's, home of the famous Polar Bear Club, run
by its well known owner Fran Tate:
Even the Nasa Astronauts wrote Fran from
the Space Station "what's the delivery charge?" You've
still got the best Mexican food in the universe!
![alaskapepenasa.jpg (67668 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskapepenasa_small.jpg)
|
Barrow
post office, this one's for you great guys at the Carolina Forest post
office that handle our thousands of packages - Sam, Becky, Shirley, Vinnie,
James and Annie - we've been to the top of the world to mail a postcard to you...
![alaskabarrowpostoffice.JPG (35568 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowpostoffice_small.JPG)
|
A
dead seal in front of this home will be dinner soon. This is similar
to deer hunting in the Midwestern U.S., but without any attitude of trophy
hunting.
The women choose to prepare the seals because
they have a finer way of carving the meat. If the esophagus is
nicked, for instance, digestive worms that live there would invade the
meat and ruin it.
![alaskabarrowseal2.JPG (40341 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowseal2_small.JPG) |
Pre-Fourth
of July festival with great food & games, a great time to get
together. Note the beautiful parka hand made for the little girl:
![alaskabarrowfest2.JPG (39241 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskabarrowfest2_small.JPG)
|
JOE'S
MUSEUM
![alaskajoesign.JPG (37894 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/alaskajoesign_small.JPG)
Joe has lived in Barrow for many
years now. He currently works at Pepe's Restaurant and used to
deliver water to many households by truck, known fondly then as The Water
Boy.
His 2nd floor apartment across the
street looks like it could hold a modest collection of Barrow tools &
artifacts (WRONG). It holds a treasure trove of these PLUS numerous
taxidermy animals...more items than we have seen collectively at 4 museums
including the Heritage Center. (He could use a minimum 10,000 square
foot building to properly display what he has). He purchases these
from the Inupiat people here in Barrow (stating definitively that NONE of
it is for sale).
He is the guardian, caretaker &
collector of these pieces of Barrow history that are truly special to him
and to the world. The Smithsonian has visited many times, as have
many celebrities. But no one will get past the killer guard dog
without Joe there. Here is the sign at the top of his stairs, you'd
better believe it:
![joe27.JPG (35583 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe27_small.JPG)
The tall baleen is set up with
markings like a sundial for determining when certain migrating birds will
be here or in other parts of the country, based on the shadows that are
cast upon it. Visiting scientists set this up on Joe's porch, it is
extremely sophisticated.
|
CARVINGS
& ARTIFACTS |
Walrus
tusks scrimshawed & cribbage boards, and oosiks![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe1_small.jpg) |
Ivory
masks, animal carvings
![joe2.jpg (59841 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe2_small.jpg)
|
Ivory
billikins, masks & animal carvings
![joe3.JPG (38701 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe3_small.JPG)
|
More
ivory carvings
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe4_small.jpg)
|
Woolly
mammoth teeth, artifacts
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe5_small.jpg)
|
Whale
ear bones, artifacts
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe7_small.jpg)
|
Eskimo
games, baleen basket and bone masks
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe8_small.jpg)
|
Oosiks,
walrus skull, woolly mammoth tusk
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe9_small.jpg)
|
Artifacts,
vertebra
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe10_small.jpg)
|
Bird
skulls, artifacts
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe11_small.jpg)
|
Tools
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe12_small.jpg)
|
Teeth,
Artifacts
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe13_small.jpg)
|
Hair
combs, scrapers, harpoons
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe14_small.jpg)
|
Huge
baleen basket
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe15_small.jpg)
|
Two
gray whales that were rescued in Oct. of 1988 photograph, bone masks
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe16_small.jpg)
|
Drum,
mask photos, baleen carvings, polar bear photos
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe17_small.jpg)
|
Whale
ear bones, ice testers, other artifacts
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe19_small.jpg)
|
Ancient
skins & tools
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe20_small.jpg)
|
Tools
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe21_small.jpg)
|
Net,
axes, oosiks
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe22_small.jpg)
|
Tools
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe33_small.jpg)
|
Bone
carvings, more tools
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe34_small.jpg)
|
Superb
photo of polar bears in Barrow
![joe40.JPG (35759 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe40_small.JPG)
|
Walrus
skull
![joe41.JPG (37177 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe41_small.JPG)
|
Some
of the largest baleen we've ever seen, notice the quality of scrimshaw
work![joe42.JPG (38521 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe42_small.JPG) |
Fossil
tusks & vertebrae
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe44_small.jpg)
|
Tools
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe46_small.jpg)
|
Tools
![joe47.JPG (40753 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe47_small.JPG)
|
Tusk
carvings, numerous tools
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe48_small.jpg)
|
These
tools are in his kitchen in display cases atop the stove & countertops
not needed for cooking, as he eats at Pepe's |
Combs,
teeth, oosiks
![joe29.JPG (39891 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe29_small.JPG)
|
Harpoon
tips, teeth
![joe30.JPG (37823 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe30_small.JPG)
|
Harpoon
tips
![joe31.JPG (40401 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe31_small.JPG)
|
Assorted
whaling tools, note the coffee cup to appreciate the size of the display
case
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe32_small.jpg)
|
TAXIDERMY
ANIMALS |
Huge
musk ox
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe18_small.jpg)
|
Arctic
fox, Dall sheep horn carving
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe23_small.jpg)
|
Mountain
goat
![joe24.JPG (39049 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe24_small.JPG)
|
The
best critter of all, his cat named Homeless is posing for our attention, quite alive, I
might add.
![joe25.JPG (37485 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe25_small.JPG)
|
This
IS the polar bear used in the old Coke commercials:
![joe28.JPG (38350 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe28_small.JPG)
|
A
wolverine overlooking his kitchen
![joe35.JPG (38338 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe35_small.JPG)
|
Porcupine
![joe36.JPG (39366 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe36_small.JPG)
|
Various
bones at the feet of a full sized Elk
![joe37.JPG (37495 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe37_small.JPG)
|
Ermine
in his kitchen
![joe38.JPG (36733 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe38_small.JPG)
|
His
favorite one-armed ermine
![joe39.JPG (37558 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe39_small.JPG)
|
Wolverine
![joe43.JPG (38533 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe43_small.JPG)
|
Wolves
![](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe45_small.jpg)
![joe49.JPG (37527 bytes)](../Latest%20Travels/Latest%20Travels%20Photos/joe49_small.JPG)
|
TABLE
OF CONTENTS is on Page 1
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